Tuesday, April 14, 2009

2007 Stonier Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula

Pinot is difficult, in that it is a 'fickle grape' (see Sideways). It will cost more to find a good pinot (usually). Many pinots are abhorrent, and bad pinot is disgusting. You should look at around the $25-$35 price point. Being fickle, however, there are good value options at these lower price points, and also at the higher. It is that there is much variance, that a great degree of research is required, from vintage to vintage. 

Yarra Vally and the Mornington Peninsula are the most obvious locations. Geelong, Macedon, are regional examples. For the most part, I prefer Yarra Valley, as Mornington usually costs more for the same quality, due perhaps to the 'toff' factor. But a great Pinot is the 2007 Stonier Pinot Noir, from Mornington Peninsula, and it's not the reserve one. Around $30+ at supermarkets, it can be had for $24 at discount merhcants. My comparator is the Yarra Valley's De Bortoli Estate Pinot Noir, the '06, which commands a price of around $30 at discount merchants, and $40 at supermarkets.

I think that the Stonier is superior. It is fuller, and more engaging. Flavours of Strawberry and Plum, but also pine needles and forrest floor. With age, one might hope for truffles (hopefully). The De Bortoli was however weaker, and not just with regards to present taste, but to its future profile. It lacked the presence, and the degree of pinosity that the Stonier had. It was slightly harsh and incongruant.

I don't want to give the wrong impression, the De Bortoli is a great wine, and probably great value at the price. But I like the Stonier, and it gets my vote.

Score: Stonier - 94.5/100; De Bortoli - 94/100

Why you want this wine: This is one of the best value Pinot's.

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